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A child in a demon mask has just walked past me. Jingling bells are attached to his costume, merry sounds echoing mellifluously over the Drava river. By his side, his father is leading him to a group of men, all wearing similar furry suits, all jumping and dancing, the cacophony of the bells now growing and growing. I am in Ptuj pronounced: tooie , the oldest town in Slovenia. But it is not for the beauty of the town that I am here today. A peculiar cultural event is about to take place.
Kurentovanje festival. Each February for the past 50 years Ptuj has hosted the Kurentovanje Carnival. The festival is all about driving away winter and summoning spring via the jump of the kurent β the favourite type of Slovene carnival costume.
According to old beliefs, the kurent was a demon who drove away winter and beckoned spring into the countryside. While there is no agreed upon origin for the kurent, most people agree it probably originated with the Celts and was appropriated by the Slovenes who emigrated to the region later. We had read a few blog posts about how large the festival would be, and had seen photos of the opening parade.
But none of that felt like ample preparation. We knew that this was a big deal for Slovenes, and was likely to be a big day. However, we were soon to find out just how uneducated we were about the Kurentovanje festival. The day started out seemingly disorganised. As we crossed the river into town, we were swarmed by locals in costume.
Some were dressed as the kurent, while others were seemingly pirates, some in traditional garb, and one guy was definitely dressed as Karl Lagerfeld. Where were we? What was this? What had be gotten ourselves into? Distantly, we could hear the clanging of cowbells. The noise was everywhere, interspersed with thin cracks of what sounded like firecrackers exploding. About us were families, local people and groups of seemingly engaged teenagers.