By spring they will be bobbing along the streets, impeding entry into buses and buildings and providing the most radical change in silhouette since the mini and the maxi. Does she care to be the focus of frank stares every time she sits down? Where on earth, in this era of female liberation and utilitarian dress, did these saucy, sexy, impractical throwbacks come from? But let the history books show that since Christian Lacroix, couturier at the House of Jean Patou, has been experimenting with petticoats and showing a few puffy skirts each season.
Armani has it right. Clothing has been sober and serious in recent years. The dominant figure of the late s was not a Frenchman but the brilliant tailor Armani. Lagerfeld cheered things up a bit, but Lacroix has thrown all caution β some would add taste β to the winds and opted for outright hilarity. Some of the dresses looked conventional in front, only to reveal a naughty minicrini at the derriere, highlighted perhaps by flowers or a bow that would do credit to Fergie herself.
There were several variations on the bustle, insouciant and not very subtle. One bouffant day costume featured layers of huge polka dots overlapping like the tiles on a roof. And the hats! Florid Creole cones, luscious layers of peonies topped by an upended straw boater.
Befruited skimmers and lacy lampshades. Carmen Miranda would have loved it. Not everything was extreme, of course. A long scarlet dress opens to reveal a white lace swimsuit. Playing games with proportion has often been done by designers. There were also lyrical bare-midriff gowns and little silk frocks that will be widely copied.
One elegant fantasy had a delicate jeweled top and what looked to be an ordinary eyelet skirt, until one realized that the eyelet was sumptuous taffeta instead of the familiar cotton. Even the most flagrant creation can be tamed by omitting the hat or discarding a pound or so of accessories. But these are not garments for real life. Couture means made-to-order apparel, requiring several fittings and carrying astronomical price tags. Couture must have an extreme element.
