T he translucent, pastel blue water of the Ova da Roseg river gushes over the rocks, as it tumbles from the pristine Swiss Bernina glaciers above Pontresina. My trackie bottoms are rolled up to my knees and I am barefoot. Our yoga teacher has already waded into the icy, slightly raging, torrent. The therapeutic practice is named after Sebastian Kneipp β a catholic priest who pioneered hydrotherapy healing. Stood ankle-deep in the water, I wonder what all the fuss is about β for ten seconds.
And then the burning shock begins. This is a glacial ice-creek. I breathe in deeply and hop out. I quickly grab a towel and am told to pummel my feet to bring the circulation back. The feeling gradually returns.
And then I get the point of it. There is tingling warmth in my toes which radiates quickly through my entire body. Invigorated, I climb back up the slippery, frosty banks and into the welcoming warmth of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof.
For years, the property has been a glorious fixture of the fairytale Upper Engadin valley, expanding from a humble inn to become a luxurious five-star hotel with rooms and a heavenly spa.
Unlike most high-end hotels, including those in nearby St Moritz , Kronenhof stays open throughout the autumn for visitors to experience the incredible changing seasons β from blazing yellow larch trees to enchanting snow-covered forests. And while the area is best known for its winter sports and days of unbroken sunshine, the crisp air and pine-scented forests are a perfect tonic for wellness enthusiasts.
