What better to blow away the January blues than a Eurostar trip to Brittany? However, pastures new are pastures new. Despite many trips to France growing up there was a big gap until our trip to Lille back in March and as you can see from our map, lots of uncharted terrain in terms of bar going. Brittany looked promising on the bar front, with its Celtic culture and vaguely secessionist vibes.
Rennes itself is a university city which normally means busy nightlife, even in January. The service was a Tasmanian devil whirlwind of half a dozen pirouetting waiting staff sashaying between the cramped seats. While foodie on our visit, there is all suggestion it slides into being a drinks focused evening wine bar, indeed a glance at the menu confirmed many of the dishes are little more than tapas bites.
As a primer for the classic bistro experience however, it was a good start. Grand civic and religious buildings transition into an ensemble of painted timberframe houses which culminates at Place Sainte Anne. An outdoor fish tank, piano by the entrance, and the feel of a place enhanced by its own creations that has become more than the sum of its parts. From the very well known to the obscure, our next stop was Cour des Miracles , a small, far more local feeling place with a younger crowd encompassing the alternative to the cosier end of bougie.
After a while the place filled up, and we can say this is a good option for later night drinking or earlier musical hangouts. The small bar was staffed by some no-nonsense but friendly guys and drinks choices were very decent. After dinner we ventured over the river into the very opposite of timber frame world, concrete blocks and arcades to the craft beer bar Amrok.
On entry, a familiar industrial chic approach, but being in a retail unit in an arcade still felt down to earth and friendly, rather than the more angular city places you can find. Communal tables, a games machine and striking Amrok mural set the tone. Their beer selection cannily mixed local Brittanique craft with Belgian classics. It all went well. It was time for a nightcap, so back to the centre of the action via Rue Saint-Michel. This street is the centre of the most raucous nightlife in Rennes.
