It may still be basking in the glow of being Italian Capital of Culture but the city has been a cultural melting pot since antiquity. Sitting close to where Europe ends and Africa begins, Palermo bears the scars — and echoes the glories — of centuries of domination. And in it basked under the banner of Italian Capital of Culture, hosting the prestigious Manifesta contemporary art biennale and helping regenerate its waterfront.
Touring them can be a bit daunting, so try a street food tour with Streaty. Rick Stein apparently did it. At the intersection of Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele is Piazza Vigliena , whose four baroque corners mark the centre of the historic quarter, locally known as Quattro Canti. Immediately south and east is grandiose Piazza Pretoria , also known as Piazza della Vergogna, the square of shame, for the thoroughly naked statues of nymphs, tritons and leaping river gods senza veli, without veils adorning the magnificent circular fountain in front of the Palazzo Pretorio City Hall.
Start your visit to the city centre with a ritual stopover at a bar. The cannoli tubes of cream-filled pastry are also delicious. Via Principe di BelMonte , spinnato. Narrow Via Maqueda , built in , is an artery connecting the north of the city to the south. As a young girl, I remember it being a noisy, car-congested place, but it has recently been pedestrianised, and makes the perfect place for a passeggiata any time of day.
Take the time to walk and get lost along the narrow side streets. You will be amazed how many hidden palaces and churches lie among the remains of dilapidated buildings left to decay since being bombed in the second world war.
Occasional liberty style Italian art nouveau shops are still standing. Pasticceria Costa Via Maqueda , dating to , does delicious marzipan patisserie, and the walls are decorated with frescos by Ernesto Basile, the artist who painted the Teatro Massimo opera house see below. If you just want a snack, the smell of panelle chickpea fritters from street stalls fills the air.
